Dig in. Think of a question you'd like to have answered, and try to find the answer. When you get tired of reading code, go read the dev mailing list, the developer's guide, or the wiki.
Unfortunately, there's no royal road to understanding a large code base. If you enjoy that sort of thing (I do) you're in for some fun. If not, guide books won't really help, so you aren't really that much worse off.
