To improve both the editing and displaying experience of SharePoint WCM Publishing pages I would like to be able to switch to a special set of Masterpage/PageLayout when in edit
I think you would be fighting SharePoint if you continue down that route, I fear it would also become something of a support nightmare as it becomes less clear where problems lie, or remembering to make changes in both (or all four!) places when something is updated.
You can have controls appear or hide depending on the editmode of a page so what is shown to the user is totally different but all the code for a page is still in one place.
Investigate the editmodepanel.
I realise that is not quite what you asked... but I find fighting SharePoint is a losing battle you just have to work with its 'way'.