After installing Ruby and Ruby Gems:
$ sudo apt-get install ruby rubygems
...
$ ruby -v
ruby 1.8.7 (2010-06-23 patchlevel 299) [i686-linux]
$ gem -v
1.3.7
>
Ok, I hesitated to use rvm as it seemed to be aimed at solving problems I didn't intend to have (multiple ruby versions? c'mon, I just want to play with rails...) and installing from source is generally something I want to avoid...
Anyway, I gave in and followed along with http://rvm.beginrescueend.com/rvm/install/
$ bash < <( curl http://rvm.beginrescueend.com/releases/rvm-install-head )
Then (mostly suggested by the output of the above, but I needed to add libmysqlclient-dev):
$ sudo aptitude install build-essential bison openssl libreadline5 \
libreadline5-dev curl git zlib1g zlib1g-dev \
libssl-dev libsqlite3-0 libsqlite3-dev sqlite3 \
libxml2-dev libmysqlclient-dev
Then I edited my .bashrc as required and opened a new terminal.
$ rvm install 1.9.2
$ rvm --default use 1.9.2
$ ruby -v
ruby 1.9.2p0 (2010-08-18 revision 29036) [i686-linux]
$ gem install rails
$ rails -v
Rails 3.0.1
After creating a new project, I still had a few things to do to make it work:
$ rails new myproject --database=mysql
$ cd myproject
$ emacs config/database.yml # set passwords
$ bundle install
$ rake db:create
$ rails server
And finally it all seems to be working. I hope that helps someone else, it certainly wasn't a particularly pleasant intro to a framework. I've reordered the commands I actually entered to avoid double handling for anyone following along.