Using C#, I am finding the total size of a directory. The logic is this way : Get the files inside the folder. Sum up the total size. Find if there are sub directories. Then
Hard disks are an interesting beast - sequential access (reading a big contiguous file for example) is super zippy, figure 80megabytes/sec. however random access is very slow. this is what you're bumping into - recursing into the folders wont read much (in terms of quantity) data, but will require many random reads. The reason you're seeing zippy perf the second go around is because the MFT is still in RAM (you're correct on the caching thought)
The best mechanism I've seen to achieve this is to scan the MFT yourself. The idea is you read and parse the MFT in one linear pass building the information you need as you go. The end result will be something much closer to 15 seconds on a HD that is very full.
some good reading: NTFSInfo.exe - http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb897424.aspx Windows Internals - http://www.amazon.com/Windows%C2%AE-Internals-Including-Windows-PRO-Developer/dp/0735625301/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1277085832&sr=8-1
FWIW: this method is very complicated as there really isn't a great way to do this in Windows (or any OS I'm aware of) - the problem is that the act of figuring out which folders/files are needed requires much head movement on the disk. It'd be very tough for Microsoft to build a general solution to the problem you describe.