We have been working with gwt for almost 2 years. We have learned a lot of lessons. Here is what we think:
Dont use third party widget libraries especially gwt-ext. It will kill your debugging, development and runtime performance. If you have questions about how this happens, contact me directly.
Use gwt to only fill in the dynamic parts of your apps. So if you have some complex user interactions with lots of fields. However, don't use the panels that come with it. Take your existing stock designer supplied pages. Carve out the areas that will contain the controls for your app. Attach these controls to the page within onModuleLoad(). This way you can use the standard pages from your designer and also do all the styling outside the gwt.
Don't build the entire app as one standard page that then dynamically builds all the pieces. If you do what I suggest in item 2, this won't happen anyway. If you build everything dynamically you will kill performance and consume huge amounts of memory for medium to large apps. Also, if you do what I am suggesting, the back button will work great, so will search engine indexing etc.
The other commenters also had some good suggestions. The rule of thumb i use is to create pages like you were doing a standard web page. Then carve out the pieces that need to be dynamic. Replace them with elements that have id's and then use RootPanel.get( id ).add( widget ) to fill those areas in.
