If you want to find out whether a directory exists because you want to do something with it if it does (create a file/directory inside, scan its contents, etc) you should just go ahead and do whatever you want to do, then check whether it failed, and if so, report strerror(errno) to the user. This is a general principle of programming under Unix: don't try to figure out whether the thing you want to do will work. Attempt it, then see if it failed.
If you want to behave specially if whatever-it-was failed because a directory didn't exist (for instance, if you want to create a file and all necessary containing directories) you check for errno == ENOENT after open fails.
I see that one responder has recommended the use of boost::filesystem. I would like to endorse this recommendation, but sadly I cannot, because boost::filesystem is not header-only, and all of Boost's non-header-only modules have a horrible track record of causing mysterious breakage if you upgrade the shared library without recompiling the app, or even if you just didn't manage to compile your app with exactly the same flags used to compile the shared library. The maintenance grief is just not worth it.
